Aging concerns
Aging
Aging is both natural and a privelege. However there are many products avalible on the skincare market, which claim to be 'anti aging'. But what does that actually mean? If you intend to use any of these products it is important to understand that aging is of course inevitable, but there are certain products which help protect the skin and reduce signs of aging- such as: fine lines, wrinkles, age spots, and dullness. Aging is a complex biological process, which is influenced by many factors- both extrinsic, and intrinsic.
Why does aging happen?
Oxidative stress
One of the factors influencing aging is oxidative stress, it is caused by an abundance of a type of compound produced in the body, called free radicals.
Free radicals are a byproduct of the body converting food into energy and support the immune system, but only low to moderate levels of them are needed. When there is too many free radicals, they damage the skin.
Free radials are unstable molecules. They want to be stable, therefore they take electrons from the skin. This leads to something called oxidative stress. Oxidative stress is an imbalance between free radicals and antioxidants. The excess radicals damage the cells and tissues of the body.
Too many free radicals in the body looking to stabilize disrupts the composition of full molecules in the body by trying to take their electrons. Free radicals can create damage to cell membranes via lipid peroxidation. The radicals looking to stabilize, target the polyunsaturated fatty acids (spec. methylene groups). It begins with the abstraction of a hydrogen atom. This transforms the lipid into a lipid radical. This lipid radical then bonds with oxygen to form a peroxy radical. The chain reaction of lipid peroxidation has then begun, as this peroxy radical can go on to steal a hydrogen from another lipid molecule.
A free radical (e.g., •OH) abstracts a hydrogen atom from a lipid molecule (LH), producing a lipid radical (L•). The lipid radical then reacts with molecular oxygen (O₂) to form a lipid peroxyl radical (LOO•). Although one electron from O₂ pairs with the lipid radical, the remaining unpaired electron makes the molecule highly unstable. To regain stability, the lipid peroxyl radical abstracts a hydrogen atom from a neighboring lipid, forming a lipid hydroperoxide (LOOH) and generating a new lipid radical (L•), thereby propagating the chain reaction.
Lipid hydroperoxide- as it is quite unstable, can break down in the presence of metal ions and produce toxic reactive aldehydes, like acrolein and malondialdehyde. These aldehydes are electrophilic,and can disrupt protein structure as well as DNA and protein synthesis by forming adducts with nucleophilic groups on biomolecules (Reactive aldehydes: what is their role in neuropsychiatric disorders?)
This can lead to cell death for reasons such as toxic byproducts breaking apart cell membrane, mitochondrial dysfunction, or apoptosis. This damage of cells, tissues, and DNA, leads to more mature looking skin by contributing to wrinkles, loss of elasticity, and pigmentation changes.
Horomonal changes
Horomonal changes are a key factor in the aging process. Starting in the late 20s, 1% of collagen is lost per year. This results in a thinner dermis (the middle layer of the skin). The skin is then no longer to support itself as well with reduced collagen, leading to sagging through loss of volume and thickness.
The cell turnover process also becomes slower with age. Cell turnover is the continuous skin process of shedding dead skin cells and replacing them with new ones. This buildup results in dullness.
Elastin, or elastic fibers in the skin degrade with age. These fibers allow the skin to return to its original shape. Their loss results in wrinkles appearing on the skin, as well as more fragile and thin skin. The fragile state of older skin only means it is more susceptible to UV rays.
Androgens like testosterone regulate the sebaceous glands. As these horomones decrease with age, the production of sebum & moisture from the skin glands decreases. This leads to drier and less plump looking skin.
Extrinsic factors
UV damage
Sunlight exposure, is an outside factor which plays a large role in aging. UVA rays- due to their long wavelengths, penetrate the skin and can lead to premature aging and hyperpigmentation. They break down collagen and elastin fibers in the skins dermis layer.
UVA ways also contribute to the damage of cells via oxidative stress, by creating more free radicals in the skin.
Diet and nutrition
Diets high is sugar, processed foods, and trans fats accelerate the aging process. This is due to the fact that these foods cause an increase of glycation. An overabundance of sugar molecules (e.g., glucose) bind to lipids and protiens (collagen and elastin). This bond creates the harmful compound: Advanced Glycation End-Products. They prevent the collagen and elastin from functioning properly and damage the cell tissue by creating stiff and brittle proteins.
Excess salt, due to its high levels of sodium, can also draw the water out of the skin. This leads to dryness, which makes wrinkles and fine lines seem more prominent.
Solutions
Targetting ingredients
Many anti aging products contain antioxidants as the main active. This includes Vitamins C, and E. These antioxidants help to fix the imbalance between antioxidants and free radicals which happens during oxidative stress.
Peptides boost the production of collagen. They are short chains of amino acids which send messages to accelerate the production of collagen and elastin. Peptides also activate the fibroblasts in their production of collagen.
Retinol, or vitamin A, speeds up the cell turnover process and boosts collagen. It causes the skin cells to divide and shed faster, revealing the newer, fresher skin layer. It also stimulates fibroblasts (collagen producing cells in the dermis) to synthesize collagen fibres. Finally, it boosts the skins natural production of hyaluronic acid, creating a more plump look.
Hyaluronic acid can also be applied in a skincare routine. It helps to make the skin appear more plump by penetrating to the dermis layer supplying deep hydration.
At home solutions
Increase in vitamins C, A and E can also be incorporated into one's diet. Foods such as carrots, bell peppers and sweet potatoes are optimal choices.
Aim to limit tanning and to be cautious with sun exposure in general. If you are exposed to UV rays, be sure to wear sun protection.
Apply an at- home aloe vera mask! Compounds in the aloe vera, such as glucomannan, stimulate fribroblasts in the production of collagen.